Pacific Rim, Part XI: Hong Kong

Thu, Apr 3
I arrive in Hong Kong just about 20:05, only 5 minutes late even though our flight was significantly delayed. I make it through immigration and get my bags quickly. I don’t see Asit, so I get some money form an ATM, buy some snacks at 7Eleven to break a bill for coins, and call him. He gives me directions to get to his place, and I’m there in about 35 minutes. He lives in a Taj Mahal, compared to the places I’ve been staying in, and I figure I’ll finally be able to dig through the grime that’s accumulating in every crevice since I started my trip.

Bag dropped off, we leave for a late night snack of dumplings at a favorite Chinese restaurant. Asit does his best to keep me up to get me back on US time, but I fade around 01:00. I got online and get a second wind though. I go to bed closer to 03:00, and I’m feeling pretty good that I was able to outlast him.

Fri, Apr 4
Asit’s got the day off – some type of Chinese holiday? Doesn’t matter to me; all I know is that he’s got the day to spend with me. We start by climbing Hong Kong Island to the “mid-level” area of Soho. I’d always heard and even seen television shows about how Hong Kong is crazy busy and over populated, yet I didn’t experience that at all. I’m actually amazingly impressed with the city and don’t feel claustrophobic at all. I’d describe Hong Kong as NYC meets SF with Singapore’s mythical cleanliness. There’s no question that it’s an island, and land is limited. I thought the whole island would be packed with sky scrapers, but instead, they’re mostly built at sea level. I’m not sure if it is, but it’s shaped like a volcano – very high in the middle. There are some structures on the mountain walls, but not many. Instead, the city has developed into multiple levels on the surface of the already populated areas. Kind of how the subway is underground in NYC, Hong Kong has a subway and several super ways also. From nearly any intersection, you can climb a flight of stairs, take an escalator, or an elevator to a level higher up with people movers to get you up and down inclines and let you populate a whole new level like a multi-story mall or freeway intersection or a hamster maze. And, everything is super clean. I love it!

We find our way to the Flying Pan. I think it’s a clever (if not politically incorrect) twist on words. Their logo is a frying pan with wings, but I’m hearing Jinglish all the way. They offer a very expat menu of American style breakfasts, and they’re served on huge plates, diner style. Very nice.

Once our bellies are full, we head to the Peak Tram. Apparently, this is the thing you have to do in Hong Kong, and Asit’s making sure I get it. I’m not sure that “The Peak” is the thing to do as much as taking the tram. It’s been around forever, and I’m sure it’s got its place in the history books. It’s a little like taking the cable cars in San Francisco, but I honestly don’t remember them too well. Basically, the Hong Kong we know with skyscrapers and all is built on the north end of the island. Immediately south of that is a peak that rises with about a 45 degree slope. There’s a road that will take you up, but who would want to when you can live history by climbing on the tram? There are two cars connected with a cable that’s hung over a pulley at the top; when one comes down, the other is going up. It makes you wonder what would happen if the cable broke, but it doesn’t stop you from taking the ride. We get to the top, and it’s a little hazy, but we get a good view of the city anyway.

Once we’ve sucked in the northern and southern views, we head off to get a memory card for my camera. I’m terribly upset by the fact that my SD card failed me and I’ve lost all of my Grand Palace and Kanchanaburi (River Kwai) photos – win some, lose some… Asit bargains for me in Chinese, and I get a good deal.

We take the train back to his place. It’s the usually method of transportation, yet this trip is special. We’re chatting at the stop when a guy behind us asks, “English?” We say yes. He asks, “Christian?” I say no. He asks me to hold him and sticks out his hand. I’m a little thrown, but I hold his hand. I’d expected him to want to practice his English, or maybe even try to convert me, but he seems only to want to hold my hand. OK. We get on the train, and Asit and I sit together. The guy’s staring at us, and he seems a little off. Asit offers the guy his seat, so now I’m sitting next to the strange man again. He sticks out his hand, and I hold it. Then he says, “hold me here,” pointing to his shoulder opposite me. I figure it’s OK, so I do. Then he explains that he’s autistic. I’m seeing some signs of it, so I feel for him. He asks me to hold him closer to the ribs, and I say no. He repeats his request, and I again, I deny him. He asks why, and I tell him that it would make me feel uncomfortable. This goes on for a couple more minutes before our stop. Asit and I get off and have a long conversation about how people end up doing things they never would have, simply because they’re posed with a baby step type of approach. Interesting to consider… I never felt uncomfortable, even if it was a little weird, but I could see how it would develop into more of a scam. Anyway, the experience provided good blog material.

We only had a little down time before heading off to meet with a friend for dinner. A set of Qualcomm gents were in Hong Kong for a meeting and we had Chinese with them before heading to Ned Kelly’s for a couple of drinks and some great Jazz. The evening wrapped up with a couple episodes of Couplings.

Sat, Apr 5
We’re doing some sightseeing today, but breakfast first. What could be better for breakfast than pizza? Asit says lasagna… We get to the Lamma Island ferry when Asit remembers that he gets seasick and hasn’t taken his Dramamine. He takes it last minute and manages to survive the 30 minute ferry ride. We get off on the northwest end of the island and start looking for the hiking trails that have been advertized. We may have been on the wrong “hiking” island, but we manage to find a walking path that took us to a beach a little southwest of where we landed. From there, I convinced Asit that another 15 minutes wouldn’t kill us, even though it was bloody hot, and the sun wasn’t going to give us a break today. We make it to a halfway point and realize that there’s a ferry that leaves from the eastern side of the island as well. At that point, there was no sense in doubling back, so we make it all of the way across the island and grab a bite to eat while waiting for the ferry. It’s a cool little island if you’re even backpacking and need a reasonably priced guest house, but I can’t say it’s on the Hong Kong Must Do list.

We get back in time to rest a bit before the big 20:00 light show. Couplings is a great filler at any time of the day, but we chose to start The Kingdom instead. I didn’t quite know what it was about when it was in the theater, but WOW was it eye opening. You gotta love a movie that teaches you something about history and makes you go hmmm.

We take the train under the water to get north of the island. The 20:00 light show is something that would make Disney proud. It plays music at my end that matches up perfectly with light choreography on The Island. There are maybe 15 “players,” or lighted buildings, but 3 really stand out. You can’t tell during the day, but these things light up in all kinds of colors with all kinds of movement. I suppose it may be something like Fantasia, Las Vegas style. Very cool.

A night in Hong Kong wouldn’t be complete without a night at the local expat Hot Spot Lan Kwai Fong, so we make our way to The Cavern for a couple of drinks and some dancing. The US Navy docked earlier in the day, so the streets and clubs are swarming with Navy boys and girls, or as Andre puts it, drunken sailors. I suppose they had reason to celebrate, as that’s what they did.
We finish our movie and go to bed. I can’t believe I’m leaving tomorrow! It seems strange. I’ve been gone for so long. The only country that drove on the right is Cambodia. I wonder if I’ll be able to drive correctly when I get home. I hope for Budget’s sake that I do.

Sun, Apr 6
Today, I go back to the States, officially ending my Pacific Rim Tour. I have very mixed feelings about it. I’m looking forward to seeing my friends and sleeping in my own bed, but I’ll miss the constant input of new sights, sounds, flavors, experiences, etc.. Asit asked where I’m going next, and I’m not sure. I think I need to see the Mediterranean next – Egypt, Italy, Israel, Morocco. You name it, I want to see it.

There’s not a lot of time before my flight, so I get ready and pack as soon as I wake. Asit’s up and takes me to the train station where they have the most awesome service ever. You can check in for your flight AND check your bags, many miles from the airport, relieving all kinds of pressure to get to the airport and wait.

Checked in a couple of hours before my flight with a 24 minute train ride to the airport, emigration, and a walk to my gate separate me from Los Angeles. With that kind of time, Asit and I have time to grab a bite to eat and shoot the shit a little more.

With an hour to go, I hop on the train and sit. I get off and immediately go to emigration. I have HK$24.40 to spend, but I figure I should get to my gate first. They board in 10 minutes, and I’d hate to miss it. I find that I have to take another train to my flight, so I’m happy I went straight there. Unfortunately, my flight had been delayed 40 minutes, but that allowed me time to spend my coins.

I get to the gate to find that the flight’s been delayed 1:15 now, and Cathay Pacific is giving out food voucher for the inconvenience. HOLY MOLY! If only all airlines did this, I’d be fat! I grab some cookies and mango juice and think Cathay Pacific is my new favorite airline. I may need to travel them more often.